Shau Kei Wan ( 筲箕灣), Hong Kong 02162013

The third day of our Hong Kong trip saw me and my relatives splitting up again into three groups with me going solo. My plans for the day include going on a heritage trail in Yuen Long in New Territories then going southeast in Shau Kei Wan just to glimpse the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence. Commuting was not a worry since the trains are fast and very efficient, unlike the Philippine MRT and LRT system where people are packed like sardines. However, due to my late departure from the hotel at 11am, I dropped Yuen Long and promised to myself that I will explore the whole New Territories some other time.

Shau Kei Wan is described as a haven for ships in olden times, being a coastal area whose population grew in 18th century when fishermen discovered the place. It is no wonder that Shau Kei Wan has small temples dedicated to fisherfolk deities like Tin Hau and Tam Kung. There is also a Western church named Tsung Tsin Church which was built in 1862. Aside from these, shipyards and a fish market can also be found in Shau Kei Wan. But the most interesting part, and also one of the highlights of my Hong Kong trip, is the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence.

I started with Shing Wong Temple, the nearest to the MTR Shau Kei Wan Station Exit C, where I burned incense as a sign of respect, while admiring the big coils of incense hanging on the ceilings. The Shau Kei Wan tram passes by this temple. (And yes, I was ecstatic to find a monorail here.)

Shau Kei Wan tram. Notice a McDonald's restaurant in the area.

Shing Wong Temple

Next is Tin Hau Temple, which is dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea. The roofs have intricate designs composed of dragons and deities as well as murals which give the temple a magnificent aura despite its small size.

Entrance to Tin Hau Temple

Tsung Tsin Church was next on the itinerary and I almost missed it because one has to go inside an alley which slopes upward. I found the edifice under renovation, which is sad.

Tsung Tsin Church at the right, beside a school.

After Tsung Tsin Church, I walked along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East and found this small altar on the sidewalk. The god on the leftmost is unmistakably a fortune god. People obviously pray here as evidenced by the presence of incense sticks.

Straight ahead is Yuk Wong Temple which was originally a shrine. People pray here to solve flooding problems. The temple is small and simple, being made of cemented blocks with very simple designs that one can easily miss it.

Next up is the museum in Lei Yue Mun Fort. The museum holds a permanent exhibit of military memorabilia from the Ming and Qing periods, a must-see for every military history fan as batteries, cannons, tanks, and other articles of war are preserved in this 34,200 meters squared establishment. And all that for only HKD 10 which is already cheap given the many things one will see and learn in this establishment. One's feet will ache from all the walking but will be handsomely rewarded with beautiful views and cool refreshing winds. A very short film can also be viewed in the small theater. It explains the different weapons and provides a lecture of historical tidbits. Aside from the exhibitions inside, visitors are free to roam around the vicinity to check out ruined structures and armaments.

 On the day of my visit, the museum had a temporary exhibit on the Wartime Japanese Propaganda Publications which began last year on July 20 and will end this year on March 27. The exhibit showcases the propaganda used to justify Japanese imperialism, with media reports distorting the ugly truths of the war while Japan is suffering from social and economic crises brought about by World War I.

entrance to the museum grounds

entrance to the museum itself

The staff here are friendly and are chatty. In fact, I conversed with the shopkeeper who suggested many things to me. I bought two books and he was surprised when I told him I came from the Philippines. There's always a nice feeling when you talk to strangers, you seem so strong, so suddenly unafraid of the world full of strangers.

The last one on my list is Tam Kung Temple which I visited after spending more than 2 hours at the museum. Tam Kung is the patron of fishermen and is also believed to control the weather and to heal the sick. He is said to have become an immortal at the age of 20.

Because I have to go back to the hotel early to meet up with mom and relatives for dinner and I finished touring around Shau Kei Wan at 3pm, I decided to go back to Tsim Sha Tsui and continued my exploration in the area.