Tarak Ridge 01222017

My first hike this year happened in January, just when classes were starting. So before I get busy, I joined a group to hike in Tarak Ridge, the famed place where many get lost and where some ha to rescued because their supplies ran out while they tried to find their way back to the jump off point.

Never would I imagine that I would suffer almost the same fate were it not for my "detective" skills and rational thinking. At the onset, I was left behind by the group that I joined. So I hitched a ride with another group who were also headed to Tarak Ridge. I could have ditched the first group but then I worry about the organizer worrying about me although I was a fool to think that because he didn't even bother to count his members when they left the barangay hall. Stupid me is now left wondering what if I joined the group that took me to the jump-off point. They were a group of friends who like the outdoors... that means a solid group with common interests compared to a bunch of strangers clumped together by an organizer who couldn't even take care of his members.

But anyway, even without a friend, I was able to survive. I was with a group of newbies. I could tell by the things that they have, the "in" things of a "true mountaineer" except they are years away from becoming real mountaineers because 1. they are noisy in the mountains, 2. they do not care about the LNT principles, 3. they have no care about their fellow hikers, 4. they only hike for the selfies. Nothing wrong with number 4, but I observe that those I look up to do not take selfies. Instead, they take photos of the view. I, on the other hand, take photos of plants and whatever insects I encounter.

On the way to the top, I was first among the group, probably because the rest were already tired. On the way down, I took a wrong turn so I ended up in the middle. But then those in front of me were already far away. Those behind me were still not yet finished with selfies. So I found myself alone most of the time. And I almost got lost. Four freaking times. But good thing I was able to meet some hikers (not from our group) along the way so I at least wasn't so scared. But then nearing the river, a couple of times I almost took the wrong way. But good thinking saved me. Indicators of unused trails were clues. For instance, I noticed thick spider webs. Another is the sudden loss of footprints (thank God it rained a bit). Another is forced clearing of a path although the path is still not that obvious unless you look hard. When I finally was able to rejoin the group, one commented that "wow, you're really used to hiking alone, don't you feel scared?", he sounded like he couldn't believe that a nerd-looking gal like me could survive on my own. I told him with a smile, "of course I am afraid, this is Tarak Ridge after all. But then, you have here a strong, brave, independent, and smart woman."

And we got home very late, way behind the schedule because they all had to take a bath. I just wiped off dirt on my faces and arms with baby wipes since I prefer to take a long hot bath at home. So while they were bathing, I slept in the van.

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But then people will not like you when you're too smart and too courageous for a typical woman. Well, if they think I was already too masculine, wait until they get to meet the women I look up to! Anyway, what that boy told me made me reflect on how people are swallowed by the dictates of society when it comes to masculinity and femininity, as if certain traits should only be for males! Why can't boys love a woman who is brave and smart? One theory says that the male ego is insecure when faced with a strong woman. (And it doesn't help that I have become rather wary of boys.) I want to see the day I meet a real man.

A Tale of Love and Darkness (2015)

Ramadhan started on the 6th of this month. That day, he told me we are not to see each other for one whole month. I was hurt and troubled. I know he is busy and all, but most times I find myself thinking if I really have a place in his heart and in his life.

So on the 9th, before I jump into an extra hectic schedule which I embraced wholeheartedly to somehow keep him off my mind, I decided to watch a movie alone. It was funny how that week there were heated exchanges of SMS and all throughout the week I was crying hard. Yet we still manage to remind each other to bring an umbrella because the rainy season is upon us. Or maybe we just want to find an excuse to text each other and show that we care despite the misunderstandings. Either way, when he texted to say it was raining and for me to take care going home, I replied saying I would be at UP to "take a walk because I just wanted to be in a place full of trees". Wild child still.

But I fought hard, braving the heavy Metro traffic, to end up at UPFI to attend the free screening of A Tale of Love and Darkness, a movie by Natalie Portman. It's a heartbreaking movie (or maybe I read too much of my own situation into it) about a family striving to live a normal life in the new state of Israel following World War 2. The Palestinians are of course not too happy since the state was formed on their land. (And we see how malicious the West is when they cause border and frontier issues which remain to this day.) The movie was based on Amos Oz's book of the same title, an autobiography that reveals his pro-Zionist sentiments but without discounting the possible peaceful coexistence with Palestinians.

Amos' story focused in his mother Fania, played by Natalie Portman herself. Fania was a romantic, seemingly infatuated with a strong man who can do manual labor, in contrast to the person she married. Amos' father was a writer who loved etymologies, by the way, and he took pride in this as this gift was what made Fania fall in love with him. Unbeknownst to him, Fania suffers from the marriage, snubbed and bullied by her mother-in-law. Until there came a point when she falls into depression and young Amos had to take care of her. And she repeatedly told him that he was her Light, her only joy. (At this mention, I couldn't help but cry as I thought of the Light of my Life...)

The movie ends showing a teenager Amos driving a tractor. He had become a farmer, a realization of his mother's fantasies.

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Rarely do I see a jampacked UPFI and because I came in around 7:20, I had to be on my feet for the whole duration of the film. Didn't matter to me because I liked the movie although the love part was not emphasized. Darkness pervades the whole film. Love was evident only in Fania's sweet talk to young Amos and well, how Amos put her as the central character in the story.

Mexico Misadventures Part 2

When I finally arrived in Constitucion to reunite with my German friend, I was happy to be introduced to a local archaeologist there who is from Merida. I gave them a pack of chicharron and chocnut.

Since they haven't had lunch yet, I cooked for them. It was a simple meal of rice and mixed veggies in spicy salsa, pretty much like what I often cook at home. Later on, I would help them clean bone remains. I still cannot see myself learning how to identify bones but at least I learned there how to clean bones. Basically you mix 1 part water with 1 part 96% alcohol (which I initially mistook as sonething they drink LOL) and use a swab of cotton and a toothpick to eliminate the sediments covering the bones. It was a boring task but I had nothing better to do plus it's a good training for when I go back to school.

At 6PM we drove to the rolling pastures to catch the sunset. We were toured by a man who partly owns the land and were directed to where post holes are located. Awesome! The whole field is a potential archaeological site! We savored the breeze and waited until dark to gaze for some time at the stars. Beautiful!

At night we slept on hammocks, my second night to do so. It was comfortable. In fact I was thinking then of installing one at home.

The next day we went to the reserva de la biósfera Calakmul to see the pyramids and other ruins. There were 5 major pyramids which we climbed and minor ones. It was a tiring activity considering the heat.

Calakmul ruins

part of a pyramid in Calakmul

Now Calakmul is difficult to get to. I am just lucky that my friend knows how to drive. Problem is she underestimated it and refused to load gas. So we were stuck for some time there. Since I had to go to the bus terminal to be able to take the night bus back to the Federal District, I gambled my life again and asked a group of four burly men to take me to Xpujil since they were going to that direction, too.

each pyramid has varying number of steps and we climbed each and every one of them!

Isn´t it beautiful? A silent witness to a magnificent past

While in the car, I was surprised to find myself calm despite being with four male strangers. They were a fun bunch and the friendliest of them talked to me and made sure I was comfortable. I even fell asleep out of exhaustion. Upon arriving at Xpujil, they even dropped me right at ADO bus terminal. I was so embarrassed not to have anything with me to give them but they said it was okay and bid me good luck.

I have to note how awed I was at the sight of the sky so blue. It was just so beautiful. I never liked summer because of the heat but while on the road looking at the sky, I felt the urge to draw and paint but of course I didn't do that because I did not have any materials with me.

In Xpujil I had a hard time with the lady selling bus tickets there. She doesn't seem to care about bus passengers much and was not helpful when I was inquiring about routes and fares. Since I had 4 hours to go before bus departure, I looked for a place with free wifi and found it in a hotel. The lady attendant was nice and gave me the password. Then I went to church to attend mass.

While inside the church I became aware of how hot it was in the area. I realized I badly needed a bath and yet I didn't want to spend for a hotel room just to bathe. So after mass I approached a woman to ask if I could bathe at her home and she directed me to the doctor who gladly accepted me. She was delighted to hear I was from the Philippines because she studied in a school named República de Filipinas in the Federal District.

So I was able to take a bath and converse with the good doctor who told me a lot about food in Mexico. When I left her house, she told me never ever to tell anyone I was traveling alone and wished me good luck.

The world still has hope. I can continue praying for a world to be inhabited by conscious, sensitive, sensible, and kindhearted souls.

Museo de la Historia de Tabasco: Casa de los azulejos

After visiting La Venta and the Museum of Natural History in Villahermosa, I took the combi and asked to be dropped off in Plaza Armas but was dropped off the the historic center (centro histórico) which was bustling with commercial activity. It was a hot day and my camera and phone were running out of battery.

It is during these times when I truly appreciate having had to deposit my bag before going around the museum. A kindly lady saw the plastic bag I had with me and offered me a more decent medium-sized shopping bag, the kind promoted by environmentalist grocery stores. I asked to have my gadgets charged and they kindly let me while I went around the museum. It was also a relief to find that they have free wifi so I was able to contact my friend in Constitucion, Campeche. (You may want to read about my misadventures HERE.)

True to its name, I was bowled over when I entered to find the walls and floors all covered with azulejos. I first came to know about azulejos in my last trip to Laguna when my buddy pointed out the painted tiles inside a church there. The museum houses a few artifacts on the history of Tabasco, asserting that Mexico had its beginnings in this Mexican state attributed to the Olmecs and later on to the Mayas. 

While the collection of artifacts dating to preHispanic times pale heavily in comparison to what the Museum of Anthropology has in the Federal District, what is remarkble in this museum is the collection of preserved vintage objects like TV, radio, jukebox, horse carriage, sewing machine, and others.

The museum also has a banner of Tabasco's escudo which was heavily influenced by the Russian Bolsheviks and which shows pride of place for its fertile lands. Despite its few collection, a visit to this museum is worth it if one enjoys studying architectural styles and history. History buffs would be delighted to know that there is a short article here on the history of the television in Tabasco--- this alongside the role this state played during the revolution.

Mexico Misadventures Part 1

So the past few days saw me living on the road since Monday night when I took the night bus from Mexico DF TAPO to Villahermosa in the South. It was a 12-hour bus ride by ADO bus and I was tired from spending time climbing pyramids in Teotihuacan.

From thereon, I have had many misadventures. I had a hard time in Villahermosa because people were not so good at giving directions. I did find my way to La Venta, backpack with me and all. It weighed around 10kg but anyway all I thought of was that I survived Pulag twice and I could certainly survive backpacking for a few days in Mexico.

this friendly fellow has grown accustomed to human presence!

La Venta is a lovely place where one can see the famous Olmec sculptures, in particular the giant heads. There is an aviary and a small zoo, plus you get to see squirrel-like animals with long snouts and they seem to have grown accustomed to humans.

Just one of the many Olmec sculptures

After La Venta, I visited the Museum of Natural History which is just beside the park. It's actually for kids but I enjoyed the place. I hope we have something like that in the Philippines to get more kids to like the natural sciences.

the view from outside La Venta

This is my favorite in the Museum of Natural History

Taking the combi, a local public transport vehicle, I ended up in the historic town, the equivalent of Vigan. Here I visited the Casa de Azulejos which is an eclectic style mansion. The museum shows the history of Tabasco.

neoclassical Palacio de Gobierno in Plaza de Armas, Villahermosa

I traveled at night again to save time and accommodation. My target was to arrive in Escarcega on the morrow but bad luck seemed to be with me. When I bought a ticket to Constitucion, I never thought there were two towns of that name, one in Tabasco, one in Campeche. My target was Campeche, but at 10:30 PM I was dropped off at Constitucion, Tabasco, much to my horror upon my discovery. There were consecutive lightning flashes and anytime it might rain so I decided to walk despite the darkness. A car passed by but it probably did not see me waving.

So the hiker in me won and I walked all the way to town. Good thing I had flashlight with me. I was nervous of course because I had been hearing stories about crimes in Mexico but I had no choice. I felt it was more dangerous to stay near the highway. Plus I badly needed a bath to freshen up myself.

Imagine how I almost panicked when I realized I was still in Tabasco! This must be the result of my love affair with hot sauce!

The small town had many dogs which began their consecutive barking when I finally arrived. For a while I was looking around for a house that could accommodate me but people seemed to have slept already. Fortunately I saw a young man about to go home and I asked if I could temporarily stay in his house, explaining my situation to him. He woke up the entire family and they adopted me for a night. And I got my bath, too. It was my first time to sleep in a hammock, which is a BIG bonus.

The following day they offered me coffee and crackers for breakfast. The young man even walked with me to the highway. A car passed by and we got on. Jose made sure I hopped on the right bus going to Candelaria.

Then transfer to El Sur bus going to Escarcega. The conductor of that bus seemed to have taken a liking for me and seemed bent on seducing me. I told him I have a boyfriend back home but he still persisted though a bit politely, acknowledging my "commitnent". I was glad when we finally reached Escarcega. From there I took the combi to Constitucion where a friend was waiting (and who was very much worried for me when I told her about the misadventures the night before).

I cooked lunch for them! :)

But anyway, I arrived safely and cooked late lunch for her and for her friend. There were cucumbers, carrots, onions, and garlic so I cooked them all up together with salsa picante. Good thing it's exactly what I usually cook for my packed lunch. There were only two of them in the cabin, which was good because I can only socialize with very few people.

enjoying the sunset after an afternoon's work cleaning bone artifacts

Anyway, the reason why I would risk everything to get there was because my friend is an archaeologist who volunteered to excavate in a site there. She was telling me we'd visit archaeological sites together and we did. But that is another story of misadventures... We did get to Calakmul to see the pyramids.

To be continued...

2013 Ilocos Trip Itinerary

THIS IS A VERY LENGTHY POST...
... so I highlighted important things for my readers.

This is the continuation to my previous post on my first solo travel.

Days before our trip, my friend unexpectedly got sick. For days I was debating within myself if I should forego the trip altogether or pursue it all on my own. It would be my first time to do a solo trip (not counting Palawan since I joined the archaeologists). Also, I thought that it would be a very cool way to welcome my silver year which I will be celebrating soon.

Because I was suddenly thrust into a solo trip with all my romanticism intact as I threw myself to the winds (lol! I love that phrase from Paul Auster's Moon Palace so please forgive me if I tend to use it many times), OUR plans changed at the last minute to MY plans. On the day of my departure, I did one last quick research on how to get the most of my solo trip, with plans to forfeit my return plane ticket and take the southbound bus instead. I even planned to stop by Pangasinan and La Union, but that didn't actually happen because suddenly I found myself buying a lot of pasalubong and moving around became difficult.

So below is my actual itinerary:

Day 1: ETA Laoag airport at 9:20PM (was supposed to arrive at 8PM but there was a typhoon in Manila and zero visibility caused the delay)
Now as what I have learned from my Hong Kong trip early this year, as advised by my uncle when he fetched us at the airport, never leave the airport without getting brochures and maps. I asked for maps at the information desk and registered for the free shuttle ride to Laoag. Cool huh?

I was second to the last passenger to be dropped off at my chosen place--- Texicano Hotel. It was already close to 10PM when I got there and rested for a while. I thought of sleeping on an empty stomach but after some thought I realized this wouldn't work. Texicano Restaurant was already closed at this hour so I had to do a quick exploration of the area within a 100 meter radius. Good thing I found Papa Pau's Diner where I had an order of fish and chips (P100). Couldn't get enough of fried cream dory. The chips were like Shakey's mojos. The umay factor was to be expected but I did finish everything. Of course I also requested a cup of hot water.

While eating alone, I felt lonely. If I did so in Manila, it wouldn't matter since I'm used to solo dates. But somehow a trip wouldn't be that fun without a companion...Went back to the hotel afterwards. Stores were already closed so I didn't get to buy a gallon of water. Washed my clothes and went to sleep before 11 PM.

Day 2: Woke up at 5:50 AM. Couldn't sleep well because my room faces a major road and vehicles passing by caused lots of noise. That, or I'm just not used to sleeping alone. Left my room at 6:30 AM and was befriended by a stranger. I forgot the basic rule: don't talk to strangers. I guess it was my first major blunder. But after our conversation and realizing my mistake, I did the next best thing: inquire about him. I was very much tempted to request for a change of rooms, but I totally forgot about it.

The first thing I did upon leaving the hotel is to look for a store to buy water and breakfast. Since it was still early, I bought 5 pieces of Durong's malunggay pan de sal (P2 apiece so P10). These also were my lunch since I kept on moving around yet didn't have the appetite to enjoy lunch at a restaurant.

Note: I only knew about Roque Ablan during this trip. He was considered a hero of WW2 for forming the Ablan-Madamba guerilla group of Northern Luzon.

With only half a bottle of water left, I explored Laoag city... well half of it anyway. While exploring I was also noting the jeepney routes. So when I was finally able to but a liter of water, I took the jeep to Sarrat to visit Sta. Monica Church and Convent. Fare was P15. Nobody inside the church. Felt creepy but was grateful for the chirping of birds which broke the cold silence. The museum was not yet open.

After touring Sarrat, I was ready to go to Piddig but encountered a problem: there was no jeep to Piddig at that time and I was already waiting for half an hour. I was told I had to go back to Laoag. It dawned on me that I broke another rule: farthest place first and nearest place last. I should have gone first to Piddig since the jeep passing from Piddig to Laoag also passes by Sarrat. DAMN!

Had a quick lunch at a carinderia near the jeepney terminal. I was attracted by the P10 pancit. It's too salty and I thought of our Ilocana secretary immediately because she also cooks pancit like that, too salty but with lots of crushed peppercorns. I had to add spiced vinegar to somehow counter the saltiness.

Walked around again. At this time I was already thinking, how far can I go without turning back? So seeing a  jeepney to Paoay which also passes by Batac and San Nicolas, I boarded it. Learning from my foolishness earlier, I asked which is farther, Paoay or Batac. The driver says Paoay so I asked to be dropped off at Paoay Church where, despite the rain, I marveled at the big buttresses and meditated for a time in the garden where they also kept well known quotes from St. Augustine. I asked around to go to Paoay Lake but a one way tricycle ride costs P200 so I left it for another Ilocos episode since I was more than sure I'd go back there for a complete Ilocos experience.

Off to Batac afterwards where I visited the Marcos Museum and Mausoleum, World Peace Center, Batac Church, and Aglipay Shrine. Jeepnety fare from Paoay was P10. I didn't get to eat their famous empanada because I wasn't in the mood to eat anything at that time.

From Batac I took a bus bound for Laoag and got off at San Nicolas , fare was P20.

San Nicolas Church, a pottery monument at the road junction, and the town hall

The jeep I took from San Nicolas to Laoag was from Banna, a town I didn't go to. Hopefully next time I will. After a rainy day of much walking I was delighted to find that the jeep stops very near Texicano Hotel. Yay! Time for bed. I washed my clothes again and slept a while before dinner at Texicano Restaurant. Had chopsuey with shrimp with no rice (P150) and a glass of pineapple juice (P35).

Message from my KJV Bible which I found to be comforting in my solitude:
2 Chronicles 15:2 "(...) The Lord is with you while you seek Him. If you seek Him, He will be found by you; but if you forsake Him, He will forsake you."

How apt that this solo trip has turned into a Visita Iglesia of some sort with me trying to find spiritual rejuvenation.

Day 3: Got up before 6AM and cancelled by Pagudpud/ Burgos tour because of the weather. I went to Pasuquin instead since I was told the beach there is more serene and waves are calmer. I had my apprehensions but ultimately, I chose the path less traveled. Who knows what stories I will bring when I go back with my unusual Ilocos trip?

I took out a cheeseburger (P80) fron Texicano Restaurant. Tricycle from Texicano to the jeepney terminal was P15. Jeep to Pasuquin was P25. At Pasuquin, I prayed a while at the church there and hired a tricycle to take me to Nalvo where I bought salt worth P20. Stopped by Villa Florentina Resort where I enjoyed the company of nobody but sea, breeze, sunlight, and a cute dog who seemed very friendly.

date with nature and furry friends, and just a cheeseburger

Before leaving Pasuquin, I bought a pack of their famous biscocho (P75). On the way back to Laoag, I dropped by a Chinese temple and offered some incense.

Chinese temple near the border of Laoag and Pasuquin

And finally, to Museo Ilocos Norte, my final stop before I leave Laoag for Vigan. I spent a considerable time in the museum as there are a lot of things to see and learn inside. For instance I noticed that Ilocanos have many different uses for basketry and so they also have various names for these based on functions. The whole museum was modeled as half market, half bahay na bato. The second floor provides a glimpse of usual things to be found inside an elite's house. I took pictures of almost everything so as to familiarize myself on the artifacts one may expect to find if ever I get to join an excavation in Ilocos.

upper right: preserved open trench. lower right: glass floaters (Bulintik)!

Back to the hotel and packed my bags for Vigan. I am so warmed by people's concern for my safety. People I've talked to wished me good luck and repeatedly told me to be very careful. I said goodbye to Laoag with a happy heart and with a vow to come back again. It's a good thing Texicano Hotel was just a few minutes' walk to a bus terminal leaving for Badoc and Vigan. I was having second thoughts about stopping by Badoc for Juan Luna's house since I was already carrying 3 bags but on the other hand, I cannot miss the opportunity to see the Luna Shrine because... because... Antonio Luna is a favorite hero and I think if I were born during his time I could have pursued him... In the end, my curiosity won and I found myself telling the bus conductor to drop me near Juan Luna's house. Non-AC bus fare from Laoag was P50.

Then off to Vigan. Waiting for a bus to Vigan along the major road took long. Bus fare was another P50. When the bus finally entered the famed city of heritage houses, my senses were instantly overwhelmed by the sight of colonial structures. WOW! Better than Intramuros many times over! I took a tricycle to Vigan Hotel (P10). No available single fan room so I took the double room which costs P495.

After cooling down for some 20 minutes, I went out and did my initial exploration. Visited Syquia Mansion since it was still open. And was pleasantly surprised to find Crisologo Museum open, too, so I went inside and had a look. Bought dinner at an eatery near Quezon Ave. cor. Libertad. Grilled bangus with half serving of rice was P155. I ate inside my room because it was already late and I promised my sisters I would be at the hotel before dark. Bad move coz the sauce from the grilled bangus soaked my canvas bag and I had to wash and clean my stuffs. At least I had a fairly decent dinner that night. At that point I was already wondering if my loneliness was the cause of my lack of appetite.

Quick bath, then plans for the morrow and the biggest decision on whether to leave for Manila the following day.

Day 4: Got up early to catch the Sunday mass but I missed the first so I roamed around the plaza and enjoyed the twilight hours. After that I attended Sunday mass. It was conducted in Ilocano so I didn't really understand anything but I did get to see how well-disciplined Ilocanos are compared to the barbarians of Metro Manila.

Vigan at dawn. Gloomy yet beautiful.

After mass, I headed back to my hotel for a quick breakfast of Nesvita. Then hired a tricycle for one hour (P150) to bring me to Bantay Church, Sta. Catalina Church, and St. Vincent Ferrer Church. Had the most fun at Bantay Church since one can climb up to the top of the belfry and have a breathtaking view. Also tried kalamay (P5 apiece). It's made from sticky rice with buko.

I asked to be dropped off at Burgos Museum after my church pilgrimage. I was lucky because October was museum month so all branches of the National Museum have free entrance. Yay!!! There I met Sir Efren Vister who showed me around and even told me jokes.

Back to the plaza and near my hotel, I spied Hap Chan in Vigan Plaza Hotel and realized how much I miss Chinese food. So in I went and ordered salt and pepper spare ribs with rice (P120) and took out Crispy beef with rice (P99) as my packed lunch.

By 11:30AM I had checked out of my hotel and was already outside waiting for a tricycle to take me to Partas bus station. Yes, I decided to go back home. Lo and behold! Kuya Boy, who drove me to the churches earlier in the day, was very timely in passing by the street where I waited for a tricycle. So we met again and he happily sent me to the bus station (fare was P10). I asked a bus scheduler to look after my things while I go to the market to do last-minute shopping because my mom asked me to buy tagalog garlic and my dad requested for a gallon of ilocano vinegar. My fate was secured, no more stopover and I could only go straight home because I definitely couldn't move around with so much things with me.

I got home before 10PM.

I would like to take this opportunity to thank my sisters and my parents as well as my officemate Mel for being my textmates the whole time I was in Ilocos. They somehow made me feel less lonely.
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This took me two days to write....

Solo Travel 1: Ilocos

Back last night from a solo trip from Ilocos. It was my first time to do it. My parents thought I was with a friend; I couldn't tell them the truth but they assumed I was with someone. I was afraid they'd say no, despite having proven myself capable of wandering and finding my way home in Hong Kong. Still, they insist, HK is different from the Philippines. Here danger lurks everywhere. So when I arrived home last night after a 10-hour bus ride, I was greeted by a brief sermon about my solo gallivanting, reminding me of the Davantes case, etc.

Touchdown Laoag airport: More than an hour's delay due to weather turbulence causing zero visibility

It didn't help when I told them I didn't go out at night and I was always back inside my room in the hotel before 6pm. I think they do understand something about me now, that I can get extra restless, (hopefully not reckless...) and that from time to time, I need a breath of fresh air from the countryside because sadly, I suffer in this urban jungle called Metro Manila. I wish to one day be able to procure a land and develop it into a farm and create a sustainable way of life while enjoying my books and nature around me. If Thoreau was able to do it, I don't see why I can't.

Three nights of sleeping without a companion and three days spent mostly on the road with strangers on public vehicles, I felt more independent, more alive, more free, more contemplative. In my travels early this year, I learned the art of communicating with locals. I ought to thank my training in archaeology for this because it was during our fieldschool when I first discovered how friendly the locals really are, and how they can make your trip more worthwhile by suggesting to you things you don't get to see or experience when you opt to book a tour from agencies. In travelling solo, you exercise full agency, you have complete control of time and resources, you can go from one place to another without worrying about companion/s. 

But the road can also get lonely. 

On the upside, it forced me to really get to know other people. I chatted with the manager of the restaurant in the hotel I stayed in who is from Cagayan Valley. I chatted with the lovely ladies of Ilocos Norte Museum who both admired my courage in travelling on my own. I chatted with the guide in Syquia Mansion in Vigan and one of the descendants of the Syquia family. I chatted and interviewed a National Museum official in Burgos Museum. I chatted with a passenger who works as a mascot and who sat beside me in the bus on my way back to Manila. I was humbled by their stories, I was inspired by their own travels, and I was warmed by their willingness to open up to me, a complete stranger.

I have spent some time in a beach in Pasuquin. While most visitors go to Pagudpud for the white beaches there (I saw many pictures on the internet and I too, want to go there but because of the typhoon, I decided to go to a much calmer beach instead.) I was totally alone in the beach, but I was pleasantly surprised when a dog followed me and kept me company. He was such a sweet dog.

My sole companion in a secluded beach in Nalvo, Pasuquin

My Ilocos trip was different in that I didn't visit the usual places a visitor must go to. Instead, I focused on my two great interests: churches and museums. Since renting a tricycle was costly, I decided to travel like a local and take the jeepney and/or bus. I prayed in each church I visited. Not that I am a super religious Catholic, it's more of a trip in search of spirituality and meaning. I am awed at the magnificent churches of Ilocos. Paoay Church truly lives up to expectations. But there's also Bantay Church and Sta. Monica Church. I even attended mass in Ilokano at Vigan Cathedral just to get a feel of the local way.

Sunday mass celebrated in St. Paul Metropolitan Cathedral (aka Vigan Cathedral)

At night yes, I get scared. Sometimes I think there are ghosts with me in the room. It sounds creepy but for comfort, I always quote to myself Psalm 23: "The Lord is my Shepherd, I shall not want. (...) I will fear no evil: for thou art with me; thy rod and thy staff they comfort me."

I can't say that having been through it all, I felt a lot better. But I did feel a certain kind of calm, a tenderness that says "all will be well, do not worry."

So in the coming days, my posts will be about my journey in Ilocos. 

I wish I had read these before I went on my trip:
http://www.vagabondish.com/beat-loneliness-solo-travel/
http://www.ndoherty.com/travel/
http://www.candaceroserardon.com/2012/07/loneliness-on-the-road/
http://www.wanderingearl.com/feeling-lost-confused-lonely-while-traveling/

Or maybe having not read these was helpful for me to get to know myself better and to see for myself how I would behave when put in situations I have been in. I threw my life to the winds again, and I  discovered things I had never known before, things that cannot be learned under any other circumstances.*

*(in reply to an article I submitted to Youngblood two years ago)

update: See where I went to and what I did