Food in Mexico

Because I can't seem to get enough of Mexican food...

what I cooked for my hosts in Campeche

my first meal in DF with...

tomato soup (LOVE this!) and...

love the chips. The bread were good, too!

Had this in Teotihuacan. Complete meal and very delish!

Conference food. Love the bacon!

at an eatery near St. Jude Thaddeus Church near Reforma. This one's got a funny taste, but probably just the corn in the tortilla

oat crackers which I bought for my long bus ride

inside La Venta they sell pozol, a chocolate drink with maize. YUM!

And this pack of potato chips made my day in Villahermosa!

my last meal in Villahemosa consists of this sopas, this very refreshing lemonade, and..

the chicharron rice!

free breakfast in the hostel

Shopping in the Federal District of Mexico: Ciudadela and Sonora

In the afternoon while still in an interesting session, C messaged me and told me he and R are going shopping. They asked if I would like to go with them. I'm not a big fan of shopping but knowing these two are culture buffs, I know I am in for a good shopping experience.

Before meeting them, I went to the washroom and found two friendly Mexican women who are friendly and lovable. When they asked me what session I would be attending next, I replied that I would be going out shopping with the two boys. They asked where and when I said "Sonora" they were shocked and told me not to go because it's a dangerous place. As an alternative, they recommended Ciudadela to me. They were even shocked to know that R was looking for a certain image of Santa Muerte for his friend. They cautioned me against this.

on the way to Ciudadela by foot, we saw this library

So anyway, we did as they said, visiting Ciudadela instead. The market does not disappoint. It was very near a subway station so getting there was no trouble at all. I love the place ENTIRELY! It reeks of CULTURE: crafts and art abound and what really excited me was that not a few stalls are selling MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS!!! (If only I had the moolah but then I was thinking about my budget for the remainder of my stay...)

a colorful resto in Ciudadela

 Except I wasn't able to take lots of photos inside because my eyes got busy feasting on all the wonderful crafts and my mind was thinking of ways to earn more money and when I would be able to come back to Mexico, and which musical instruments to buy, if I would have enough time to learn another instrument (they have a wide range of instruments under the guitar family and I would also love to get my hands on Mexican violins... SIGH!), and countless other things. Oh the things you think for LOVE and PASSION...

my favorite tacos, couldn't get enough of this!

 Not finding the specific image of Santa Muerte, we decided to brave the Sonora Market. The place is pretty much Divisoria so we didn't have difficulty in adjusting. Same tips: be alert and be vigilant. C and R even reprimanded me when I took out my cam to take a photo of the market. The only single photo I have of the place... #jujubels. But anyway, better safe than sorry!

Sonora market

When we got back to the conference, I met up with the Mexican women again and told them our adventures. The look on their faces when we told them we went to Sonora despite their warnings! But I deeply am thankful for their concern and for the relief I saw upon learning that nothing bad happened to us. They are so motherly!!! (I miss them already and we only get to communicate these via Facebook only...)

What we did early in the morning:

Attended mass in Basilica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe

Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, Mexico

Early in the morning of July 19, Sunday, R, C, and I decided to wake up extra early to be able to attend the first mass at the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe, an important National Shrine due to an alleged appearance of the Virgin Mary in 16th century to an Aztec named Juan Diego to instruct him to build a church at the site.

The lights were the first thing that caught my eye... and I jaw dropped in awe of its beauty.

Find the Philippine flag! :)

According to the story, the then Bishop first doubted the report but when presented with roses in winter and when the image of the Virgin Mary was miraculously imprinted on a cloth, he immediately ordered the construction of the church. This church became one of the most important tool to convert the Aztecs to Christianity. Two centuries later, Our Lady of Guadalupe became the patron saint of Mexico which continues to this day. Veneration of the Lady strengthened in 1921 when a bomb explosion caused parts of the church including the marble steps to be destroyed but the glass case of the image of Our Lady of Guadalupe remained intact.

new church where mass is celebrated

Maybe because we went there too early but we didn't get to enter the old church. Would have wanted to see its interiors. With the significance of the church to the Mexicans, I am sure that the interiors would be VERY beautiful. We were also in a hurry because we wanted to catch the breakfast spread at the hotel and attend some sessions since Sunday would be the last day.

old church preserved (the sun was just about to rise)

 Outside the church complex, there is a building that sells religious items. The merchandise are on the pricey side since it's a touristy place. In fact, that's the reason why we went there early, to avoid the crowds that are sure to flood the church. (Except the downside to this was that we were not able to take beautiful photos because of lack of natural light... Ah well I'm a fan of silhouettes anyway so no prob with me. Though if I were to study the details through pics, that wouldn't help.)

religious merchandise being sold outside the church complex grounds

So going back to the hotel we were in luck to still be able to eat decent breakfast and to attend the last day of the conference.

The following day, we went to Teotihuacan. It would be the last day for most of the participants including C. That night also started my solo travel towards Yucatán Peninsula. It was full of misadventures but I put my faith in God and in humanity so I still can say that I had the best adventure of my life... so far. :)

Also read:

Misadventures Part 1

Misadventures Part 2

Tabasco History Museum/ House of Blue Tiles

and more updates in the coming weeks

Note: I am just taking a break from writing two papers for a conference which will be held at the end of this month... WISH ME LUCK and please... PRAY FOR ME.

Mexico Misadventures Part 2

When I finally arrived in Constitucion to reunite with my German friend, I was happy to be introduced to a local archaeologist there who is from Merida. I gave them a pack of chicharron and chocnut.

Since they haven't had lunch yet, I cooked for them. It was a simple meal of rice and mixed veggies in spicy salsa, pretty much like what I often cook at home. Later on, I would help them clean bone remains. I still cannot see myself learning how to identify bones but at least I learned there how to clean bones. Basically you mix 1 part water with 1 part 96% alcohol (which I initially mistook as sonething they drink LOL) and use a swab of cotton and a toothpick to eliminate the sediments covering the bones. It was a boring task but I had nothing better to do plus it's a good training for when I go back to school.

At 6PM we drove to the rolling pastures to catch the sunset. We were toured by a man who partly owns the land and were directed to where post holes are located. Awesome! The whole field is a potential archaeological site! We savored the breeze and waited until dark to gaze for some time at the stars. Beautiful!

At night we slept on hammocks, my second night to do so. It was comfortable. In fact I was thinking then of installing one at home.

The next day we went to the reserva de la biósfera Calakmul to see the pyramids and other ruins. There were 5 major pyramids which we climbed and minor ones. It was a tiring activity considering the heat.

Calakmul ruins

part of a pyramid in Calakmul

Now Calakmul is difficult to get to. I am just lucky that my friend knows how to drive. Problem is she underestimated it and refused to load gas. So we were stuck for some time there. Since I had to go to the bus terminal to be able to take the night bus back to the Federal District, I gambled my life again and asked a group of four burly men to take me to Xpujil since they were going to that direction, too.

each pyramid has varying number of steps and we climbed each and every one of them!

Isn´t it beautiful? A silent witness to a magnificent past

While in the car, I was surprised to find myself calm despite being with four male strangers. They were a fun bunch and the friendliest of them talked to me and made sure I was comfortable. I even fell asleep out of exhaustion. Upon arriving at Xpujil, they even dropped me right at ADO bus terminal. I was so embarrassed not to have anything with me to give them but they said it was okay and bid me good luck.

I have to note how awed I was at the sight of the sky so blue. It was just so beautiful. I never liked summer because of the heat but while on the road looking at the sky, I felt the urge to draw and paint but of course I didn't do that because I did not have any materials with me.

In Xpujil I had a hard time with the lady selling bus tickets there. She doesn't seem to care about bus passengers much and was not helpful when I was inquiring about routes and fares. Since I had 4 hours to go before bus departure, I looked for a place with free wifi and found it in a hotel. The lady attendant was nice and gave me the password. Then I went to church to attend mass.

While inside the church I became aware of how hot it was in the area. I realized I badly needed a bath and yet I didn't want to spend for a hotel room just to bathe. So after mass I approached a woman to ask if I could bathe at her home and she directed me to the doctor who gladly accepted me. She was delighted to hear I was from the Philippines because she studied in a school named República de Filipinas in the Federal District.

So I was able to take a bath and converse with the good doctor who told me a lot about food in Mexico. When I left her house, she told me never ever to tell anyone I was traveling alone and wished me good luck.

The world still has hope. I can continue praying for a world to be inhabited by conscious, sensitive, sensible, and kindhearted souls.

Museo de la Historia de Tabasco: Casa de los azulejos

After visiting La Venta and the Museum of Natural History in Villahermosa, I took the combi and asked to be dropped off in Plaza Armas but was dropped off the the historic center (centro histórico) which was bustling with commercial activity. It was a hot day and my camera and phone were running out of battery.

It is during these times when I truly appreciate having had to deposit my bag before going around the museum. A kindly lady saw the plastic bag I had with me and offered me a more decent medium-sized shopping bag, the kind promoted by environmentalist grocery stores. I asked to have my gadgets charged and they kindly let me while I went around the museum. It was also a relief to find that they have free wifi so I was able to contact my friend in Constitucion, Campeche. (You may want to read about my misadventures HERE.)

True to its name, I was bowled over when I entered to find the walls and floors all covered with azulejos. I first came to know about azulejos in my last trip to Laguna when my buddy pointed out the painted tiles inside a church there. The museum houses a few artifacts on the history of Tabasco, asserting that Mexico had its beginnings in this Mexican state attributed to the Olmecs and later on to the Mayas. 

While the collection of artifacts dating to preHispanic times pale heavily in comparison to what the Museum of Anthropology has in the Federal District, what is remarkble in this museum is the collection of preserved vintage objects like TV, radio, jukebox, horse carriage, sewing machine, and others.

The museum also has a banner of Tabasco's escudo which was heavily influenced by the Russian Bolsheviks and which shows pride of place for its fertile lands. Despite its few collection, a visit to this museum is worth it if one enjoys studying architectural styles and history. History buffs would be delighted to know that there is a short article here on the history of the television in Tabasco--- this alongside the role this state played during the revolution.

Mexico Misadventures Part 1

So the past few days saw me living on the road since Monday night when I took the night bus from Mexico DF TAPO to Villahermosa in the South. It was a 12-hour bus ride by ADO bus and I was tired from spending time climbing pyramids in Teotihuacan.

From thereon, I have had many misadventures. I had a hard time in Villahermosa because people were not so good at giving directions. I did find my way to La Venta, backpack with me and all. It weighed around 10kg but anyway all I thought of was that I survived Pulag twice and I could certainly survive backpacking for a few days in Mexico.

this friendly fellow has grown accustomed to human presence!

La Venta is a lovely place where one can see the famous Olmec sculptures, in particular the giant heads. There is an aviary and a small zoo, plus you get to see squirrel-like animals with long snouts and they seem to have grown accustomed to humans.

Just one of the many Olmec sculptures

After La Venta, I visited the Museum of Natural History which is just beside the park. It's actually for kids but I enjoyed the place. I hope we have something like that in the Philippines to get more kids to like the natural sciences.

the view from outside La Venta

This is my favorite in the Museum of Natural History

Taking the combi, a local public transport vehicle, I ended up in the historic town, the equivalent of Vigan. Here I visited the Casa de Azulejos which is an eclectic style mansion. The museum shows the history of Tabasco.

neoclassical Palacio de Gobierno in Plaza de Armas, Villahermosa

I traveled at night again to save time and accommodation. My target was to arrive in Escarcega on the morrow but bad luck seemed to be with me. When I bought a ticket to Constitucion, I never thought there were two towns of that name, one in Tabasco, one in Campeche. My target was Campeche, but at 10:30 PM I was dropped off at Constitucion, Tabasco, much to my horror upon my discovery. There were consecutive lightning flashes and anytime it might rain so I decided to walk despite the darkness. A car passed by but it probably did not see me waving.

So the hiker in me won and I walked all the way to town. Good thing I had flashlight with me. I was nervous of course because I had been hearing stories about crimes in Mexico but I had no choice. I felt it was more dangerous to stay near the highway. Plus I badly needed a bath to freshen up myself.

Imagine how I almost panicked when I realized I was still in Tabasco! This must be the result of my love affair with hot sauce!

The small town had many dogs which began their consecutive barking when I finally arrived. For a while I was looking around for a house that could accommodate me but people seemed to have slept already. Fortunately I saw a young man about to go home and I asked if I could temporarily stay in his house, explaining my situation to him. He woke up the entire family and they adopted me for a night. And I got my bath, too. It was my first time to sleep in a hammock, which is a BIG bonus.

The following day they offered me coffee and crackers for breakfast. The young man even walked with me to the highway. A car passed by and we got on. Jose made sure I hopped on the right bus going to Candelaria.

Then transfer to El Sur bus going to Escarcega. The conductor of that bus seemed to have taken a liking for me and seemed bent on seducing me. I told him I have a boyfriend back home but he still persisted though a bit politely, acknowledging my "commitnent". I was glad when we finally reached Escarcega. From there I took the combi to Constitucion where a friend was waiting (and who was very much worried for me when I told her about the misadventures the night before).

I cooked lunch for them! :)

But anyway, I arrived safely and cooked late lunch for her and for her friend. There were cucumbers, carrots, onions, and garlic so I cooked them all up together with salsa picante. Good thing it's exactly what I usually cook for my packed lunch. There were only two of them in the cabin, which was good because I can only socialize with very few people.

enjoying the sunset after an afternoon's work cleaning bone artifacts

Anyway, the reason why I would risk everything to get there was because my friend is an archaeologist who volunteered to excavate in a site there. She was telling me we'd visit archaeological sites together and we did. But that is another story of misadventures... We did get to Calakmul to see the pyramids.

To be continued...