THIS IS A VERY LENGTHY POST...
... so I highlighted important things for my readers.
This is the continuation to
my previous post on my first solo travel.
Days before our trip, my friend unexpectedly got sick. For days I was debating within myself if I should forego the trip altogether or pursue it all on my own. It would be
my first time to do a solo trip (not counting
Palawan since I joined the archaeologists). Also, I thought that it would be a very cool way to welcome my silver year which I will be celebrating soon.
Because I was suddenly thrust into a solo trip with all my romanticism intact as I threw myself to the winds (lol! I love that phrase from Paul Auster's
Moon Palace so please forgive me if I tend to use it many times), OUR plans changed at the last minute to MY plans. On the day of my departure, I did one last quick research on how to get the most of my solo trip, with plans to forfeit my return plane ticket and take the southbound bus instead. I even planned to stop by Pangasinan and La Union, but that didn't actually happen because suddenly I found myself buying a lot of pasalubong and moving around became difficult.
So below is my actual itinerary:
Day 1: ETA Laoag airport at 9:20PM (was supposed to arrive at 8PM but there was a typhoon in Manila and zero visibility caused the delay)
Now as what I have learned from my Hong Kong trip early this year, as advised by my uncle when he fetched us at the airport,
never leave the airport without getting brochures and maps. I asked for maps at the information desk and
registered for the free shuttle ride to Laoag. Cool huh?
I was second to the last passenger to be dropped off at my chosen place--- Texicano Hotel. It was already close to 10PM when I got there and rested for a while. I thought of sleeping on an empty stomach but after some thought I realized this wouldn't work. Texicano Restaurant was already closed at this hour so I had to do a quick exploration of the area within a 100 meter radius. Good thing I found
Papa Pau's Diner where I had an order of fish and chips (P100). Couldn't get enough of fried cream dory. The chips were like Shakey's mojos. The umay factor was to be expected but I did finish everything. Of course I also requested a cup of hot water.
While eating alone, I felt lonely. If I did so in Manila, it wouldn't matter since I'm used to solo dates. But somehow a trip wouldn't be that fun without a companion...Went back to the hotel afterwards. Stores were already closed so I didn't get to buy a gallon of water. Washed my clothes and went to sleep before 11 PM.
Day 2: Woke up at 5:50 AM. Couldn't sleep well because my room faces a major road and vehicles passing by caused lots of noise. That, or I'm just not used to sleeping alone. Left my room at 6:30 AM and was befriended by a stranger. I forgot the basic rule: don't talk to strangers. I guess it was my first major blunder. But after our conversation and realizing my mistake, I did the next best thing: inquire about him. I was very much tempted to request for a change of rooms, but I totally forgot about it.
The first thing I did upon leaving the hotel is to look for a store to buy water and breakfast. Since it was still early, I bought 5 pieces of Durong's malunggay pan de sal (P2 apiece so P10). These also were my lunch since I kept on moving around yet didn't have the appetite to enjoy lunch at a restaurant.
Note: I only knew about Roque Ablan during this trip. He was considered a hero of WW2 for forming the Ablan-Madamba guerilla group of Northern Luzon.
With only half a bottle of water left, I explored Laoag city... well half of it anyway. While exploring I was also noting the jeepney routes. So when I was finally able to but a liter of water, I took the
jeep to Sarrat to visit Sta. Monica Church and Convent. Fare was P15. Nobody inside the church. Felt creepy but was grateful for the chirping of birds which broke the cold silence. The museum was not yet open.
After touring Sarrat, I was ready to go to Piddig but encountered a problem: there was no jeep to Piddig at that time and I was already waiting for half an hour. I was told I had to go back to Laoag. It dawned on me that I broke another rule: farthest place first and nearest place last.
I should have gone first to Piddig since the jeep passing from Piddig to Laoag also passes by Sarrat. DAMN!
Had a quick lunch at a carinderia near the jeepney terminal. I was attracted by the P10 pancit. It's too salty and I thought of our Ilocana secretary immediately because she also cooks pancit like that, too salty but with lots of crushed peppercorns. I had to add spiced vinegar to somehow counter the saltiness.
Walked around again. At this time I was already thinking, how far can I go without turning back? So seeing a jeepney to Paoay which also passes by Batac and San Nicolas, I boarded it. Learning from my foolishness earlier, I asked which is farther, Paoay or Batac. The driver says Paoay so I asked to be dropped off at
Paoay Church where, despite the rain, I marveled at the big buttresses and meditated for a time in the garden where they also kept well known quotes from St. Augustine. I asked around to go to Paoay Lake but a one way tricycle ride costs P200 so I left it for another Ilocos episode since I was more than sure I'd go back there for a complete Ilocos experience.
Off to
Batac afterwards where I visited the
Marcos Museum and Mausoleum, World Peace Center, Batac Church, and Aglipay Shrine. Jeepnety fare from Paoay was P10. I didn't get to eat their famous empanada because I wasn't in the mood to eat anything at that time.
From Batac I took a bus bound for Laoag and got off at
San Nicolas , fare was P20.
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| San Nicolas Church, a pottery monument at the road junction, and the town hall |
The jeep I took from San Nicolas to Laoag was from Banna, a town I didn't go to. Hopefully next time I will. After a rainy day of much walking I was delighted to find that the jeep stops very near Texicano Hotel. Yay! Time for bed. I washed my clothes again and slept a while before dinner at Texicano Restaurant. Had chopsuey with shrimp with no rice (P150) and a glass of pineapple juice (P35).
Message from my KJV Bible which I found to be comforting in my solitude:
2 Chronicles 15:2 "(...) The Lord is with you while you seek Him. If you seek Him, He will be found by you; but if you forsake Him, He will forsake you."
How apt that this solo trip has turned into a Visita Iglesia of some sort with me trying to find spiritual rejuvenation.
Day 3: Got up before 6AM and cancelled by Pagudpud/ Burgos tour because of the weather. I went to
Pasuquin instead since I was told the beach there is more serene and waves are calmer. I had my apprehensions but ultimately, I chose the path less traveled. Who knows what stories I will bring when I go back with my unusual Ilocos trip?
I took out a cheeseburger (P80) fron Texicano Restaurant. Tricycle from Texicano to the jeepney terminal was P15. Jeep to Pasuquin was P25. At Pasuquin, I prayed a while at the church there and hired a tricycle to take me to Nalvo where I bought salt worth P20. Stopped by Villa Florentina Resort where I enjoyed the company of nobody but sea, breeze, sunlight, and a cute dog who seemed very friendly.
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| date with nature and furry friends, and just a cheeseburger |
Before leaving Pasuquin, I bought a pack of their famous biscocho (P75). On the way back to Laoag, I dropped by a Chinese temple and offered some incense.
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| Chinese temple near the border of Laoag and Pasuquin |
And finally, to
Museo Ilocos Norte, my final stop before I leave Laoag for Vigan. I spent a considerable time in the museum as there are a lot of things to see and learn inside. For instance I noticed that Ilocanos have many different uses for basketry and so they also have various names for these based on functions. The whole museum was modeled as half market, half bahay na bato. The second floor provides a glimpse of usual things to be found inside an elite's house. I took pictures of almost everything so as to familiarize myself on the artifacts one may expect to find if ever I get to join an excavation in Ilocos.
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| upper right: preserved open trench. lower right: glass floaters (Bulintik)! |
Back to the hotel and packed my bags for Vigan. I am so warmed by people's concern for my safety. People I've talked to wished me good luck and repeatedly told me to be very careful. I said goodbye to Laoag with a happy heart and with a vow to come back again. It's a good thing Texicano Hotel was just a few minutes' walk to a bus terminal leaving for Badoc and Vigan. I was having second thoughts about stopping by
Badoc for Juan Luna's house since I was already carrying 3 bags but on the other hand, I cannot miss the opportunity to see the Luna Shrine because... because... Antonio Luna is a favorite hero and I think if I were born during his time I could have pursued him... In the end, my curiosity won and I found myself telling the bus conductor to drop me near Juan Luna's house. Non-AC bus fare from Laoag was P50.
Then off to Vigan. Waiting for a bus to Vigan along the major road took long. Bus fare was another P50. When the bus finally entered the famed city of heritage houses, my senses were instantly overwhelmed by the sight of colonial structures. WOW! Better than Intramuros many times over! I took a tricycle to
Vigan Hotel (P10). No available single fan room so I took the double room which costs P495.
After cooling down for some 20 minutes, I went out and did my initial exploration. Visited
Syquia Mansion since it was still open. And was pleasantly surprised to find
Crisologo Museum open, too, so I went inside and had a look. Bought dinner at an eatery near Quezon Ave. cor. Libertad. Grilled bangus with half serving of rice was P155. I ate inside my room because it was already late and I promised my sisters I would be at the hotel before dark. Bad move coz the sauce from the grilled bangus soaked my canvas bag and I had to wash and clean my stuffs. At least I had a fairly decent dinner that night. At that point I was already wondering if my loneliness was the cause of my lack of appetite.
Quick bath, then plans for the morrow and the biggest decision on whether to leave for Manila the following day.
Day 4: Got up early to catch the Sunday mass but I missed the first so I roamed around the plaza and enjoyed the twilight hours. After that I attended Sunday mass. It was conducted in Ilocano so I didn't really understand anything but I did get to see how well-disciplined Ilocanos are compared to the barbarians of Metro Manila.
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| Vigan at dawn. Gloomy yet beautiful. |
After mass, I headed back to my hotel for a quick breakfast of Nesvita. Then hired a tricycle for one hour (P150) to bring me to
Bantay Church, Sta. Catalina Church, and St. Vincent Ferrer Church. Had the most fun at Bantay Church since one can climb up to the top of the belfry and have a breathtaking view. Also tried kalamay (P5 apiece). It's made from sticky rice with buko.
I asked to be dropped off at
Burgos Museum after my church pilgrimage. I was lucky because October was museum month so all branches of the National Museum have free entrance. Yay!!! There I met Sir Efren Vister who showed me around and even told me jokes.
Back to the plaza and near my hotel, I spied
Hap Chan in Vigan Plaza Hotel and realized how much I miss Chinese food. So in I went and ordered salt and pepper spare ribs with rice (P120) and took out Crispy beef with rice (P99) as my packed lunch.
By 11:30AM I had checked out of my hotel and was already outside waiting for a tricycle to take me to
Partas bus station. Yes, I decided to go back home. Lo and behold! Kuya Boy, who drove me to the churches earlier in the day, was very timely in passing by the street where I waited for a tricycle. So we met again and he happily sent me to the bus station (fare was P10). I asked a bus scheduler to look after my things while I go to the market to do last-minute shopping because my mom asked me to buy tagalog garlic and my dad requested for a gallon of ilocano vinegar. My fate was secured, no more stopover and I could only go straight home because I definitely couldn't move around with so much things with me.
I got home before 10PM.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank my sisters and my parents as well as my officemate Mel for being my textmates the whole time I was in Ilocos. They somehow made me feel less lonely.
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This took me two days to write....
