红高粱 (1988)

This week I continued to watch a Chinese action film about the poet 李白 who is made into a vigilant reminiscent of Batman, and yet still did not finish the film. Today instead of working on my thesis, I watched a movie I have always been curious about.  I finally found a copy in Youtube except it does not have English nor Chinese subtitles (save for some folk songs in the movie) which is fine since I leveled up a lot after I vowed to be better at Mandarin upon seeing my low score in HSK level 6 exam. I did pass, but my heart is not happy with what I achieved. 

The film is about a woman named 九儿 (九 is homophone of 酒 which is also central to the story) who is being sent off to be married to an old man. Along the way, the entourage was blocked by a bandit who almost raped 九儿 had it not been for a worker who is referred to by the Main Narrator as "My Grandpa". This grandpa pounced on the bandit and initiated the attack that was eventually joined by his coworkers leading to the bandit's death. Later  on, grandpa will himself rape 九儿 although it is more like carrying her off in the fields of sorghum and it seems that whatever happened between them is consensual. The old man died suddenly and 九儿 assumes the role of boss of  the wine distillery with the help of an old worker Luohan. The men had a feast and folk songs are shown alongside rituals expressing pride of their own made red sorghum wine. Later on, 九儿 is kidnapped by a man named Sanpao who owns a butcher shop. He demands ransom and when 九儿 is freed, grandpa goes to Sanpao seeking revenge and calms down when Sanpao tells him he did not touch 九儿.

For a while, the distillery people lived in peace and 九儿 is seen to be happy with her young son who plays among the wine jars. Luohan leaves the distillery without a word and disappears as 九儿 chases after him. It turns out that he joined an anti-Japanese resistance and is later revealed to be caught alongside the bandit Sanpao. The Japanese round up the people of the distillery and cause terror, bringing with them the two prisoners. A butcher who works for Sanpao is praised and given money for his good work on skinning an animal and is later ordered to skin Sanpao alive which he refused and stabbed Sanpao instead to give his boss a quick death. Luohan is not as lucky as the other skinner obeyed the Japanese order because his life is under threat. The skinning alive of Luohan is witnessed by 九儿 and everyone. They vowed to avenge his death and in the end everyone dies except for the narrator's father (九儿's son) and grandpa.

This movie by Zhang Yimou seems to me to be an allegory of the struggles of the Chinese people. First is the emancipation from capitalism (death of the old leper). Then, the internal conflict seen in the bandit kidnapping 九儿, as well as the narrator's grandpa raping 九儿 (Chinese victimizing fellow Chinese). Third, is the terror wrought by the Japanese which made some Chinese turn to their own kind, but which also shows the nobility of the Chinese spirit to rise against foreign aggression. In all three, it is interesting that the female is seen as the ultimate victim who can temporarily achieve success but who will still ultimately die. There are so many things one can discuss with regards to this movie and it pretty much reminds me of the Filipino classic Oro Plata Mata which is disturbing to say the least. It should also be noted that Zhang Yimou is also the one behind another favorite wartime movie of mine: The Flowers of War.

War Horse (2011)

The first time I truly appreciated western movies was in 2012 when very interesting historical movies were vying for the Oscars. I saw The Artist and Hugo, both which really wowed me and from thereon, mad me a fan of western films. It does not mean that I traded eastern ones though because I still find Japanese and Chinese movies superior in both storytelling and character development.

So last night feeling a bit feverish, I stayed in the flat and continued watching War Horse. It is a very sad tale about a horse and its carer Albert who got separated and who, by twists of fate, got reunited after a very suspenseful war. (I mean, I was always nervous that either Albert or Joey get killed!!!) The first time Albert laid eyes on Joey, it was during the latter’s birth. His drunk father purchased the young horse and Albert took care of it despite many objections from his mother who thought that the purchase was very idiotic because farm rent was set aside. So Albert had to prove that Joey could plow and he did so in just a day, an extraordinary feat and a miracle at that. (Dunno if in real life it is possible.)

But then a typhoon destroyed the harvests so the family had no choice but to sell Joey. The second owner was a military officer who eventually died but not without sending sketches of Joey to Albert. The Germans took hold of Joey together with his friend, the black horse Topthorn. Here we see a change of roles for the horse. When at first it was treated as family, next it was treated as a prized possession, and then it becomes a slave as the horses are made to draw ambulance wagons. There the two horses were taken care of by two brothers named Gunther and Michael who were later on killed for deserting the army. (Note: Michael was just 14 years old but he was enlisted.)

Joey and Topthorn came to be treated again as family under Emilie’s care. But I just cannot accept how they fit inside Emilie’s room where they hid from the soldiers who raided the house! But stupid Emilie wanted to ride and that’s when the soldiers found out and confiscated the horses saying that the war takes away everything. The horses were back in the German army and unfortunately, Topthorn dies from exhaustion.

When Albert reaches the minimum age requirement to enlist, he did so with the thought of seeing Joey again. What is remarkable is that he never forgot about his friend even years have passed and still believed that he is out there somewhere. Stronger still is the belief that they will see each other again. It is this belief that propelled Albert to miraculously survive trench warfare and gas explosions although it did leave him nearly blind. So after the two endured a lot of hardships, one cannot help but cry when, as Joey was about to be executed, he heard Albert’s whistle and galloped towards his old friend as soldiers and sick and nurses made way for him. (This is a common scene in romantic movies and it is refreshing to see a horse run to his master instead of a woman to her man.)

How children and innocent lives are affected in times of war is the recurring theme in the whole film. We see how the two German brothers had to be part of the army as horse caretakers and they surely would become soldiers if they weren’t killed for desertion. We see how Emilie’s happiness eroded away when they took “her” horses and how her pleas to keep them fell on cold ears. But it is also because of war that Joey and Albert are reunited. And we have to commend Albert’s character for not letting go too easily. For him, Joey was indeed family for whom it is super worth it to join war and risk his own life just to look for his horse. That shows not just effort, but valor, courage, and trust. You don’t see that in people nowadays.

The only other good thing in the film is how we see good people who take turns caring for Joey. In all his journeys, he is able to survive because many people see his extraordinariness. And that is proven when he escapes from the Germans and gets tangled up in barbed wires to be rescued by an Englishman and a German IN THE MIDDLE OF A WAR! And we see a lot of humanity in the ordinary persons. We do not see the heads of state who created the war, but here we see a lot of lay people who are caught up in all the chaos and misery of war times.

Less obvious is how capitalism destroys relationships and commodifies everything. Joey was seen as useless at first because he is of no use in the farm, a site of vegetable production. The marketplace, or rather the auction place is featured thrice in the film. The first time was when Albert’s father purchased Joey. The second was when Joey was sold to a military officer, and the third was after the war when Emilie’s grandfather was determined to get the horse because it served as the only living memory of his granddaughter.

Indeed, this film has led to me think about how stupid mankind is, how egoistic, and how careless. Ever since a child, I have often thought about what if the world does not have armies, then there will be no war. Then again, which nation would not want to build an army which they justify doing so for defense? It is clear though that big and powerful countries like the US and Israel (throw in China as well) develop their military because of business. And PH? Always the pawn of westerners. I would be happy to have a PH military as defense in case other countries plan to invade us (Hello, China!!!) given PH’s very strategic location. But then again, we know that our stupid military bows down to corrupt elites who in turn bow down to US and other western countries. So, damn them all!!!

Phnom Penh, Cambodia 0110112014

The 20th Congress of the Indo-Pacific Prehistory Association (IPPA), held last January 12-18 in Siem Reap, Cambodia, was attended by yours truly with her friends in archaeology. Since late 2013, we had been dutifully saving up for this conference, and had been chatting almost everyday to talk about our itinerary. Of course, listing down places we like to see was easy because of our similar background. We all love museums, old buildings, local architecture designs, and we all have one goal aside from learning from on-going archaeological projects--- see Angkor Wat.

We chose the route Saigon- Phnom Penh- Siem Reap- Saigon because one of our friends who booked earlier, bought round trip tickets from Manila to Saigon, justifying that it's cheaper that way. I told her too late (the booking had been done) that she failed to consider land travel which could eat up one whole day. Because of this, I was hesitant to go, seeing that the trip would cause tempers to fly (mine included). So I told them that if I encounter a cheaper plane ticket, I would go; if not, then the trip was not meant for me. But it's a good thing Cebu Pacific had a promo later on so I got cheaper plane tickets. I initially wanted to do Manila- Saigon then SR-Manila but my friend pleaded that I go back home with her. So there... Though on the brighter side I did get to buy Vietnamese coffee and milk tea right before we went back to Manila.

We stayed at Tan Son Nhat Airport for some hours, resting and trying to sleep. Before 6AM we boarded a taxi to Pham Ngu Lao, had breakfast of their famous pho in a narrow alley, and bought bus tickets to Phnom Penh via PP Sorya Bus (10USD). We slept all the way to Phnom Penh, waking up only when we arrived at the immigration office. It was my first time to cross a national border by bus and it was very inconvenient but since we were on tight budget, we really couldn't complain much.

We arrived at Phnom Penh mid-afternoon and met up with a friend who had just finished her conservation workshop there. She stayed at a flat with two bedrooms for free as part of her scholarship so we also got free accommodation there for one night because her flatmate had already returned to her country. After resting for some time and taking quick baths to freshen up, we went out and visited the National Museum and strolled near the baywalk which reminded me of Roxas Boulevard and Ermita because of the presence of many tourists there. We also spent some time outside the Royal Palace, marveling at the architecture and taking photos as pigeons flew to the plaza grounds.

Royal Palace, facing the baywalk

inside the National Musuem

An unfortunate thing happened as we were in a tuktuk on the way to the National Museum. The Samsung Galaxy tablet of a friend was snatched by two men on a motorbike. It happened so fast and we were all shocked at what happened. So always be mindful and alert. As much as possible, never bring out flashy gadgets and wear simple clothes.

The following day was spent at Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, a depressing place, to say the least. During Pol Pot's regime, the school was converted into a prison house and was code named "S-21", was where those suspected of resisting Pol Pot were tortured until they die. What is interesting is that prisoners were documented. Each had his photograph taken and basic information was also recorded.

prison rules in Tuol Sleng

The visit to the genocide museum drained all energy I had. It was unthinkable how the human mind is creative at designing torture techniques aimed at fellow humans. Even more baffling is the cruelty and oppression inflicted on civilians just for the political elite to establish and maintain power, and just for a twisted ideology! It should be noted that despite the evil caused by the Khmer Rouge, it still aimed for the nation to be self-sufficient and to develop fervent nationalism, but at the expense of education. Still, the nationalism it promoted was to the extent that it mirrored Hitler's desire for a pure race, thus resulting in ethnic cleansing and genocide.

After a quick, cheap lunch at an eatery, we headed for Choeung Ek Genocidal Center, also known as The Killing Fields. It is where the Khmer Rouge executed more than one million people during Pol Pot's regime. It is a serene place, perfect for contemplating on the nature of man, as one navigates through the site accompanied by an audio system which details key historical events that happened there. 

One of the touching stories was about a survivor who recounts that as a child he met a fellow prisoner, an adult, who kept on pleading the guards to let the child go for he is innocent. Later, the boy learned of the death of the adult prisoner who was killed because the guards got annoyed at his constant pleas, and recalls how he was touched at the concern shown to him by a stranger.

I love the ending track where it was commented that the Buddhist stupa, having sacred Hindu and Buddhist symbols, have both garudas and nagas in it. The nagas are said to have fathered the Khmer people and are the enemies of garudas, but when they come together, they are a symbol of peace.

Before we went back to the apartment, we bought some vegetables. That night, I cooked chopsuey, making do with what is readily available in the kitchen. Still turned out to be delicious. After dinner, we proceeded to Giant Ibis bus for our night trip to Siem Reap. It was my first time to experience such a comfortable sleeper bus. Fare from PP to SR was 15USD.

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There is a whole lot more to learn about Cambodia. When we talk of crimes against humanity, genocide, and ethnic cleansing, we often discuss Hitler's Nazi regime. In highschool, Asian History was all about memorizing dynasties and names of rulers. I can hardly recall anything from that class. I think maybe if we discussed key important events that contributed to how a nation is shaped at present, students would be more receptive and more appreciative of history and culture. It was only during this trip when I learned of the Cambodian civil war so I made sure to buy at least one book: Ben Kiernan's The Pol Pot Regime: Race, Power, and Genocide in Cambodia under the Khmer Rouge, 1975-79 (2nd edition). I always wonder what makes an ideology so powerful that it can influence a large number of people, and how people are persuaded to accept an ideology as it is, without questioning the morality and underlying interests it may hold. I have been reading the book since we were in Cambodia and have yet to read it from cover to cover. It did, nevertheless, make me understand the circumstances Cambodia was in prior to Pol Pot's regime.

Papa Bravo Romeo: Navy Patrol Boats at War in Vietnam (Wynn Goldsmith)

A week ago I finished reading another book related to the Vietnam War. I saw Wynn Goldsmith's Papa Bravo Romeo in Booksale a few months ago and even deliberated on whether to purchase or not since I still have a mountain of unread books at home (bibliophile's dilemma tsk). Since I greatly enjoyed The Tunnels of CuChi I ended up leaving the store with the book.

The book is a personal memoir about river warfare during the Vietnam War. While I don't find it exactly engaging, I gained a few insights after reading the book. There's naturally the hardships suffered, the usual politics in army hierarchy, the occasional musings on vacations, stories about comrades, etc., but the book is sadly lacking in the author's own views on the Vietnam War. He doesn't mention anything that shows his justifications for the war. The only thing that mattered is to stay alive and to defeat the Viet Congs whom they consider as the enemy. There was no reflections on how the American army was perceived by the Viet Congs, or anything like that. So in the end, the book is largely boring and too self-centered.

The Body and the Blood: The Middle East's Vanishing Christianity and the Possibility for Peace (Charles M. Sennott)

Having read Statecraft: And How to Restore America's Standing in the World earlier this month, I am all the more interested in the Middle Eastern conflict. These days we often hear news of the Syrian conflict which now resulted to the loss of approximately 100,000 lives (see link to be in the know as to how the civil war erupted in Syria). Living in a third-world country with its own problems and crises to pay attention to, we are not much concerned about the chaos happening in the Middle East. One thing is certain though, sooner or later, we will feel its impact since other countries (US, Iran, Russia, etc) have stepped in and have taken sides.

A few years back, I bought the book The Body and the Blood with the goal of educating myself on what lies in the Middle East. As we all know, world history is mostly centered on Western Europe which undoubtedly produced great advances in both the sciences and the arts. But I wouldn't want to believe that other nations are mere consumers of Western-led culture, I adhere to the belief that all cultures have their own strengths and weaknesses, and that their respective peoples are interesting in their own way. Also, I'd like to see through other people's eyes how Muslims are since more often than not, they are equated to terrorists, a very unfair idea since I hold the belief that there are both evil and good in every culture.

Going back to the book, Sennet, the bureau chief of the Boston Globe in the Middle East, attempts to investigate the dwindling population of Christians in the Middle East, that region in the world where the three great faiths originated and which now are in conflict with each other--- Judaism, Islam, and Christianity. The Israel-Palestinian conflict over land territories bore a huge impact on the lives of not only Muslims and Jews, but also of the Christian minority who, as Sennet finds, is caught in the middle and suffers from the hands of the clashing giants.

What started as a pilgrimage to trace the path Jesus followed during his life turned into a mission to record the lives of the already diminishing Christians. In that respect, Sennet vividly describes the build up of tensions between the Israeli military and the Muslims, as well as the gradually growing aggression and persecution against the Christians. The Body and the Blood records cases of injustice and inhumanity and one particular chapter stands out which makes one question how other people see other people's life.

In chapter VII titled "Egypt: The Flight", Sennet describes Egypt as the place "where people, especially the lower classes, love in fear of the police force" (p.175). And they have cause to fear, especially when the police is known to grab any family and torture them for the alleged crimes they know nothing of. Also in the same chapter, the author narrates how a riot resulted in the death of 20 Christians and 1 Muslim and yet half of the arrested were Christians. This grave injustice caused many Christians to flee.

In this book, Sennet does a wonderful research on the current conditions of life in the Middle East and traces  it to history and the current economy. He speculates on the impact of low employment rate and the correlation between financial success and aggression. Ultimately, he sees the ruling elite and religious leaders, their greed for power and wealth, as the factors that play a major role in the destiny of the region. 

Statecraft: And How to Restore America's Standing in the World (Dennis Ross)

The first time I laid eyes on Statecraft: And How to Restore America's Standing in the World, I rolled my eyes and thought, another one of those bullshit books about America as savior of the world! Really! It's bad enough that Marvel Comics created Captain America, that character hero of the World War. I hadn't thought of buying the book at first but curiosity got the better of me. I randomly leafed through a few pages, just to see if there's something worth my while in it and when I saw sections on the discussion of statecraft, I was sold.

Statecraft, as defined by US diplomat Dennis Ross (also author of the book), is the "use of the assets or the resources and tools (economic, military, intelligence, media) that a state has to pursue its interests and to affect the behavior of others, whether friendly or hostile (p.2)." As such, it "involves making sound assessments and understanding where and on what issues the state is being challenged and can counter a threat or create a potential opportunity or take advantage of one  (p.2)."

With the definition established, Ross gathers cases wherein statecraft is practiced, both successfully and unsuccessfully. Starting with the German Uuification in NATO to the Serbian conflict and to the political chaos in the Middle East, Ross examines and evaluates how America positions itself in each case while inserting short discussions of two important tools in statecraft: negotiation and mediation. From the cases stated, he offers examples of both good and bad examples of statecraft practice.

Ross concludes with how America can deal with China whose booming economy is causing it to rise as a major global power. He reiterates and emphasizes again the basics of statecraft: clear objectives tied to reality, clear and realistic means to achieve the objectives, recognizing key points of leverage, and timely consulting with key persons involved.

While this book focuses more on state-level cases, I think an average person would appreciate this book as it can also serve as a guide to negotiations and dealings in life. (Aside from that, it also allows readers to have glimpses of what diplomats really do and how they do their job.) Still, I am not sold to the idea that America is the hope of the world. Methinks it is the scourge of the world.

Cu Chi Tunnel 03032013

On our third and last day in Ho Chih Minh, we were picked up by our tour guide for a tour of the tunnels of Cu Chi. On our first day, I was lucky to chance upon a pocket book in one of the bookstores near the Saigon Post Office. It bears the title "The Tunnels of Cu Chi" by Tom Mangold and John Penycate.

I recently finished reading the book, and I wish I had read it earlier so that I can ask questions during the tour. (Yes it took me months to finish it due to my hectic schedule as always.) The book is a comprehensive account of the role players of both sides during the US-Vietnam War, but mostly focusing on those with firsthand experience in tunnel warfare. It presents the difficulties suffered by both sides, both physical and psychological damages as well as the sacrifices made. The book explains in detail how America did not win the war despite their advanced technology.

As the authors of the book aptly put it, "The tunnels of Cu Chi have become for the Vietnamese Communists a symbol of their tenacity and endurance during the war against the Americans from 1965 to 1973. (...) The American military was fought to a stalemate by an enemy who made up in psychology and cunning what he lacked in aircraft and tanks. In order to fight that enemy in his own redoubts, the Americans had to invent a military skill that was so--- literally--- down-to-earth that its successes were due not to advanced weapons or firepower, but to simple courage in the face of the most ancient and primeval fear, following the quarry into the unkown darkness of his lair." (p.271)

Anyway, before going to Cu Chi, we were dropped off at this lacquerware factory where they sold every lacquer item imaginable from room separators to wall decors to containers, and even slippers and sandals. I myself wanted to buy a pair of footwear but unfortunately I had to stick to my budget. Things sold are extra expensive, so no thanks. Though if I did have money I might have bought something. The factory shop contributes a percentage of its proceeds to charity.

Once in Cu Chi, we listened to a short lecture cum video about the war. The lecture provides helpful information in understanding what goes on under the ground inside the tunnels. One can imagine just how much hardship the Viet Congs went through.

After the lecture, the tour starts. Traps created by the Viet Congs were on display. They're scary, yes, and I could very well imagine the American's horror when caught by these traps. Scenes of blood and gore fill my mind.

ca

Some tanks are conserved and put on exhibit like this one below:

There are also parts wherein life-size diorama are made, depicting the everyday life and activity of certain parts of the tunnel.

We got to experience gong through some 100 meters of the 200 kilometer long tunnel in Cu Chi. It was terribly difficult to move around I wonder how big burly Americans went down there during the war. It induces claustrophobia and fear of death by suffocation. And definitely not friendly with the muscles. 

In one hut at the end of the tour, one can view the traditional way of making rice wrapper. I was very much tempted to buy but again, I had to stick to my budget.

My friend and I took advantage of the free food included in the tour. It was actually just a snack of boiled tapioca with crushed peanuts and pandan tea. I ate a lot to give myself the much-needed energy to last the day. On the way back to HCMC, however, all of us were dead tired and slept inside the van.

After the tour, we asked to be dropped off at the Reunification Palace, the last establishment we have yet to see in the city.

Read about my HCMC trip HERE.

Museum of Ho Chih Minh Campaign 03012013

Entrance fee: 15,000 VND

The HCM Campaign Museum was established on July 7, 1987, as decreed by the Ministry of Defense. Prior to 1975, the site used to be a formation base for high-ranking officers of the Republic of Viet Nam Army, later on becoming School H14 managed by Regional Headquarters- B2.

The HCM Campaign Musuem is part of the Military Museum system, the contents of which include exhibits related to the General Offensive and Insurrection in Spring of 1975, with a special focus on the climatic Ho Chih Minh Campaign, the last strategic and determining battle to liberate Saigon, unite the nation, and finalize the war of resistance against the US. Main items of interest include war tanks and helicopters in the yard as part of the exterior exhibit, and dioramas and weapons inside the establishment.

The museum's six exhibition themes are as follows:
1. Paris Convention to the General Attack and Insurrection in Spring 1975

2. Highland Campaign
- The Liberation troops devised strategies to liberate the highlands.

3. Hue- Da Nang Campaign
- Liberation troops carried out successful attacks on Hue- Da Nang, the strongest defense of Military Zone 1 of the Saigon Government.

4. Ho Chich Minh Campaign
- With the motto "Lightning, Audacious, Sudden, Definitely Victorious", the HCM campaign was decided by the Politburo and was successful in its operations. All members of the cabinet of the Pupper Saigon Government were captured and key strategic points were occupied.

5. High Command of HCM Campaign
-Also organized by the Politburo, the high command of the HCM campaign aimed to liberate Saigon.

6. Fall of Saigon's former regime
- This signals the end of the 21-year US intervention in Vietnam

Read about my 2013 Ho Chih Minh adventure HERE

War Remnants Museum (HCMC) 03012013

The first museum we visited in Ho Chih Minh City is the War Remnants Museum. Prior to this trip, a friend of mine told me that the museum is not to be missed, and that one is certain to have anti-American sentiments after visiting the museum. I remember telling her what could possibly make me angrier at that self-righteous nation which tricks and sows discord while pretending to be the hero of the world.

The museum is located along Vo Van Tan Street. On the way, while riding the bicycle rickshaw, I enjoyed very much the fresh air. Trees line both sides of the street, totally unlike in the Philippines where very few trees can be found near roads.

On the road leading to the War Remnants Museum.

One goal of the museum is to expose the heinous war crimes committed against the Vietnamese during the US-Vietnam War. Alongside this are exhibits of war machinery, weapons, photos, newspapers, artworks by Vietnamese children, and other artifacts. When I visited, a lot of Western tourists were also there and I could hear many of them shaking their head complaining how anti-American the museum was. It just couldn't be helped since Vietnam suffered a lot from the Americans during the war. On the bright side though, the museum gives credit to a number of Americans who opposed the war back then. Some of these American protesters died.

Military helicopters and tanks are part of the outdoor exhibit.

Projectile weapons

More than a war museum,  the War Remnants Museum not only gives us a view of the US-Vietnam War, but also calls for peace on the international level, reminding us of the horrors of war.

Carbines

news clip on the infamous Agent Orange

Collection of photos of US aggression in Vietnam

a camera of a soldier preserved together with books and military uniform

A beautiful building located across the museum, probably a military dormitory.

Please see:
Ho Chih Minh travel overview

Shau Kei Wan ( 筲箕灣), Hong Kong 02162013

The third day of our Hong Kong trip saw me and my relatives splitting up again into three groups with me going solo. My plans for the day include going on a heritage trail in Yuen Long in New Territories then going southeast in Shau Kei Wan just to glimpse the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence. Commuting was not a worry since the trains are fast and very efficient, unlike the Philippine MRT and LRT system where people are packed like sardines. However, due to my late departure from the hotel at 11am, I dropped Yuen Long and promised to myself that I will explore the whole New Territories some other time.

Shau Kei Wan is described as a haven for ships in olden times, being a coastal area whose population grew in 18th century when fishermen discovered the place. It is no wonder that Shau Kei Wan has small temples dedicated to fisherfolk deities like Tin Hau and Tam Kung. There is also a Western church named Tsung Tsin Church which was built in 1862. Aside from these, shipyards and a fish market can also be found in Shau Kei Wan. But the most interesting part, and also one of the highlights of my Hong Kong trip, is the Hong Kong Museum of Coastal Defence.

I started with Shing Wong Temple, the nearest to the MTR Shau Kei Wan Station Exit C, where I burned incense as a sign of respect, while admiring the big coils of incense hanging on the ceilings. The Shau Kei Wan tram passes by this temple. (And yes, I was ecstatic to find a monorail here.)

Shau Kei Wan tram. Notice a McDonald's restaurant in the area.

Shing Wong Temple

Next is Tin Hau Temple, which is dedicated to the Goddess of the Sea. The roofs have intricate designs composed of dragons and deities as well as murals which give the temple a magnificent aura despite its small size.

Entrance to Tin Hau Temple

Tsung Tsin Church was next on the itinerary and I almost missed it because one has to go inside an alley which slopes upward. I found the edifice under renovation, which is sad.

Tsung Tsin Church at the right, beside a school.

After Tsung Tsin Church, I walked along Shau Kei Wan Main Street East and found this small altar on the sidewalk. The god on the leftmost is unmistakably a fortune god. People obviously pray here as evidenced by the presence of incense sticks.

Straight ahead is Yuk Wong Temple which was originally a shrine. People pray here to solve flooding problems. The temple is small and simple, being made of cemented blocks with very simple designs that one can easily miss it.

Next up is the museum in Lei Yue Mun Fort. The museum holds a permanent exhibit of military memorabilia from the Ming and Qing periods, a must-see for every military history fan as batteries, cannons, tanks, and other articles of war are preserved in this 34,200 meters squared establishment. And all that for only HKD 10 which is already cheap given the many things one will see and learn in this establishment. One's feet will ache from all the walking but will be handsomely rewarded with beautiful views and cool refreshing winds. A very short film can also be viewed in the small theater. It explains the different weapons and provides a lecture of historical tidbits. Aside from the exhibitions inside, visitors are free to roam around the vicinity to check out ruined structures and armaments.

 On the day of my visit, the museum had a temporary exhibit on the Wartime Japanese Propaganda Publications which began last year on July 20 and will end this year on March 27. The exhibit showcases the propaganda used to justify Japanese imperialism, with media reports distorting the ugly truths of the war while Japan is suffering from social and economic crises brought about by World War I.

entrance to the museum grounds

entrance to the museum itself

The staff here are friendly and are chatty. In fact, I conversed with the shopkeeper who suggested many things to me. I bought two books and he was surprised when I told him I came from the Philippines. There's always a nice feeling when you talk to strangers, you seem so strong, so suddenly unafraid of the world full of strangers.

The last one on my list is Tam Kung Temple which I visited after spending more than 2 hours at the museum. Tam Kung is the patron of fishermen and is also believed to control the weather and to heal the sick. He is said to have become an immortal at the age of 20.

Because I have to go back to the hotel early to meet up with mom and relatives for dinner and I finished touring around Shau Kei Wan at 3pm, I decided to go back to Tsim Sha Tsui and continued my exploration in the area.

Vietnam 0301042013

If there is a Southeast Asian country I know very little of, it is Vietnam. Prior to the trip, all I knew of the country is that people wear a conical hat, and that it has an agrarian economy.  As for its history, all I knew was related to the US-Vietnam War.

Days before our trip to Ho Chih Minh, I scoured the internet for Vietnamese songs, hoping to learn a bit of the language. It proved to be a difficult task, since the language has many vowel combinations, to say nothing of the accents. Although utterly discouraged, I discovered some good Vietnamese pop songs.  The first song I listened to was White Noise’s Kết Thúc (To Kill a Love), a rock ballad which encouraged me to explore more of their music.

Some three days before the trip, my friend and I were doing research on what to do in HCMC. Late last year we booked a flight without any plans; we thought of exploring on our own. It all changed probably thanks to the scary thought of getting lost in a foreign country with no means to go back home, as what frequently happens in movies. I did research on budget hotels and decided to stay at dorm-type inns. It doesn’t matter where we stay, as long as it is convenient to commute to and from the airport, as long as it is cheap and clean, as long as it is near museums and parks.

On February 28, right after work, my friend and I met at Magallanes MRT station and took a cab to NAIA Terminal 3. Once inside, we talked about our itinerary. We arrived there early and while waiting for boarding time, planned our day 1 schedule. During the flight, we took our much-needed sleep after winning netbook sleeves from Cebu Pacific for correctly answering trivia questions. (During my Hong Kong trip last February I also won two bagtags.)

One funny incident left us laughing at our stupidity. Before we boarded the plane, already past the boarding time, we saw some French running to our assigned gate. We laughed at them wondering what if they missed their flight. It turned out WE almost missed our flight had my friend not checked the time. We ran like crazy, like the French we laughed at just minutes ago. It turned out we hanged out near the wrong gate! Inside the plane, we burst out laughing, telling ourselves what an adventure it was! And so I learned an important lesson: Always wait at the correct gate.

It was past midnight when we got to Ho Chih Minh airport. Instead of hailing a cab to take us to the city center, we decided to spend the wee hours of the morning at the airport and slept on the benches overlooking the well-lit city below. Cool breeze turned into chilly wind after a few hours, rousing us from sleep and prodding us to put on our jackets.

At 6:30am we took the bus to ben Thanh Market. From there, we began our exploration. We only had a tourist map in hand in search of Pham Ngu Lao Street which is reputed to have backpackers’ lodges and cheap hotels. On the way, with stomachs grumbling, we paid heed to street food and had a bowl of pho bo each to give us strength for walking in case we get lost.

We were assisted by a cute young man who works at the Japanese embassy. Since we do not know Vietnamese and were armed with English only, we had a hard time talking to the vendor who did not understand English. This young man, named Ngsii (if I got the spelling right), was like a knight in shining armor to us two damsels in distress. And we both agreed that he is cute.

Pho bo (beef noodles) sold in the streets near Ben Thanh Market, 30,000 VND

While in search of a cheap hotel, we met another cute young man named Han Tu. He’s a friendly fellow we near Bui Vien Street. He told us where cheap inns can be found, certainly a godsend. We then found Thai Nhi Hotel which charges 12 USD a night for a room on the 4^th floor. That’s 6 USD per person and so we took the offer. The room has a small TV with cable, a fridge, and clean bathroom. Beds and pillows are not as comfy but it’s definitely better than sleeping on hard benches in the open. The owners are a bit friendly, so unlike the reviews in TripAdvisor and Travelfish I read when I got back to Manila. But maybe I can owe that to the fact that the owner’s sister works at Taiwan and I look like Chinese and almost spoke to her in Mandarin. And I am glad I read the reviews after the trip, otherwise we wouldn’t want to stay there, cheap it may be.

Day 1 of our Vietnam trip was spent exploring the streets in District 1 and visiting museums, parks, coffee shops, and bookshops. We were unfortunate to have encountered a scammer bicycle rickshaw who demanded that my friend and I pay 1,000,000 VND each for 2 hours’ service. We were shocked because initially they asked for only 15,000 VND. I guess at the onset we should have had our suspicions. In fact, I found the initial rate unusually low so I kept on asking if it’s really 15,000 VND and the driver repeatedly said yes. We should have known that something was amiss right then and there.

Beware of bicycle rickshaw scammers like this one. I interviewed  legit ones and they wear white uniforms.

What we visited/ saw:

1. War Remnants Museum (15,000 VND)

2. Zoo and Botanical Gardens (8,000 VND)

3. History Museum (15,000 VND, pay extra 32,000 VND to be able to take pictures inside)

4. Museum of Ho Chih Minh Campaign (15,000 VND)

5. Notre Dame Cathedral (we attended mass in Vietnamese)

6. Saigon Central Post Office (free)

7. Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre (150,000 VND)

Day 2 was the day we toured the Mekong River. We booked the tour from the agency just across our hotel. I think it’s the cheapest in the area. We randomly asked around and it was the cheapest we found at just USD 8. After the tour, we shopped at Ben Thanh market and Saigon Square.

A woman paddling for tourists in the Mekong River.

Day 3 we did the Cu Chi Tunnel tour which we booked at the same travel agency as the Mekong River Tour. It was amazing how they created the complex tunnel system which reflects the tenacity of the human spirit to defend themselves from foreign aggression. We experienced just 100 meters of this more than 200 km system and yet we were easily exhausted. It is hard to imagine how the Vietnamese people were able to live underground for years. And for this, I developed a great deal of respect for them.

Before the tunnel tour, visitors will have to listen to an interesting lecture of the system

After the Cu Chi Tunnel tour, we asked to be dropped at the Reunification Palace. Inside the four-storied French-styled palace are conserved rooms, halls, and  even vintage items like telephones, kitchen equipment, etc. 

Reunification Palace (Dinh Thống Nhất), also known as Independence Palace 

For the food we tried, please click HERE.

Detailed blog entries to follow. :)

At present, I am reading more on the history of Vietnam.